A good Spanish menu does not need to explain all of Spain. It needs to offer clear trails of flavour. The Kromans menu does so through the sea, tomato, cheese, meat and dessert.
Octopus in tomato sauce requires timing and seasoning. It should be tender and fresh, not rubber in a red coat. Prawns with spiced chocolate sauce make a more intense opening, balancing sweetness, spice and flavours of the sea.
Oxtail with Cabrales and patatas bravas shows the rustic side. It has depth, richness, warmth and the pleasure of potatoes. Cabrales needs respect, because a powerful cheese can quickly decide it owns the entire room. It does not. It needs to play with the other ingredients.
Crema catalana ends the menu with Catalan dessert energy: a creamy base, caramelised surface, almonds, orange or sherry-baked plums. It provides sweetness, bitterness, fruit and crack.
Spanish gastronomy works well at Kromans because there is so much to taste and adjust. There is flambéing, simmering, frying, tasting and listening to the pan. Good food should hit like a pistol shot — do not skimp on the powder. But aim properly.