Italian food is not one flavour, one technique or one region. That is precisely the point. In Kromans’ Italian menus, the bright meets the deep: lemon and basil, butter and sage, tomato and aubergine, seafood and bisque, mushrooms and truffle, polenta, risotto, pasta and slow-cooked meat with plenty of soul.
Italian cooking is at its best when the ingredients are allowed to taste of themselves, but that does not mean the food cooks itself. Quite the opposite. Pasta needs bite. Risotto needs to come together properly. A sauce needs adjusting, not merely pouring over. And gremolata, lemon, herbs or a hint of bitterness can provide the small kick that wakes the dish up. Bang. Not loudly. Just right.
At Kromans, the point is therefore not simply to work through a menu. You taste as you go, talk about the balance and get your hands into the details that make the difference. When the atmosphere is good, people also become braver with the spoon. They taste once more, ask another question and discover that great flavour rarely comes from grand words, but from attention, hot pans and someone saying: ‘Try it again now.’
Italian cooking is ideal for an evening in Copenhagen when a group wants to make something together that feels both grounded and generous. It is social gastronomy with a solid professional foundation, but without stiff aprons in the soul. The music is welcome to play, the tomato sauce is welcome to fill the room, and there must be space for both precision and laughter.