Herbs are sometimes treated as green confetti. That is a shame. In Italian cooking, herbs can be what brings a dish together or lifts it. Basil can add freshness to tomato and aubergine. Sage can make butter deeper and more aromatic. Gremolata with lemon, garlic and parsley can make a rich braised dish feel lighter.
Olive oil also plays a double role. It can bring richness, fruitiness and body, while also carrying herbs, vegetables and tomato. It should not simply be poured over for appearance. It needs to make sense in the dish. The same is true of tomato. Tomato is not automatically ‘Italian flavour’. It can be sweet, acidic, deep, fresh or concentrated, depending on how it is used.
The small lift at the end is often what separates a finished dish from a good one. A little lemon zest. Fresh basil. Sage butter that has not been burnt to death. Gremolata on top of osso buco. An adjustment of salt. A drop of olive oil. This is when you need to dare to taste again.
As Kromans says: ‘Good food should taste like a gunshot — do not skimp on the gunpowder!’ That does not mean everything needs to be overwhelming. It means the food should have direction, energy and clarity. It is allowed to say something when it reaches the table.