The Downton Abbey theme works because it contains a clear contrast: Upstairs and Downstairs. One direction points towards the elegant table with oysters, refined soups, fillet mignon, truffle demi-glace and blancmange. The other belongs to the more robust world of the kitchen: pie, stuffed chicken, Yorkshire pudding and pudding with vanilla sauce.
Upstairs has a little polish at the edges: gratinated oysters, white-wine cream, cayenne, Parmesan, watercress, fillet mignon and truffle. It is about sauce, precision and the sense that someone has just polished the silver. Downstairs is more direct: pie, chicken, Yorkshire pudding, salad and dessert with warm British heft.
At Kromans, the theme is not costume drama without food. It is first and foremost an evening of ingredients, cooking, tasting and shared kitchen work. You assemble, fry, stir, taste and discover that British food does not need to be dull when it is treated properly.