Upstairs is about the visible table. Service forms part of the experience, and the dishes need elegance, structure and a small measure of occasion. Gratinated oysters with white-wine cream, cayenne and Parmesan open with salt, richness and warmth. A creamy soup with cucumber and watercress is lighter, while fillet mignon with artichoke, green beans, pommes Château and truffle demi-glace brings the weight of a classic dinner.
Downstairs begins elsewhere: with the work, the pan and the warm dish that needs to satisfy. Steak and no-oyster pie, stuffed chicken, Yorkshire pudding and pudding with vanilla sauce have no less character. They simply work more directly with crispness, juices, pastry and substance.