A good dessert offers more than sweetness. Pastel de Nata works because it combines crisp pastry, soft custard, a caramelised surface and often the spiced lift of cinnamon. If the custard is too heavy, the pastry helps. If the pastry is too dry, the custard helps. If everything is too sweet, bitterness, coffee, cinnamon or fruit can help.
Travesseiro has a different texture. It is more pillow-like and substantial, with almond as an important flavour. It needs flakes, filling and lightness at the same time. If it becomes too compact it loses its charm; if it becomes too sweet it needs freshness.
At Kromans, pineapple parfait, fresh fruit or mocha and cinnamon parfait provide greater balance. Fruit can add acidity, coffee bitterness and cinnamon warmth. They are small counterpoints, but matter greatly after a menu of fish, shellfish, pork, piri-piri and garlic.
Dessert’s social role is worth mentioning too. After people have cooked together all evening, dessert is not simply the final course. It is the full stop. If it crunches, smells inviting and has substance, it becomes a good full stop — not a sugar slump met with polite nods.
Dessert at Kromans may be generous, but it still needs tasting and adjustment. It needs flakes, substance, freshness and enough character to say ‘thank you for the evening’ without collapsing into icing.