Vegetarian gastronomy is at its best when it is not built as ‘food without something’. It needs a backbone of its own. That calls for vegetables, pulses, nuts, herbs, dairy, richness, acidity, crispness and umami working together. Plant-based sources of umami such as mushrooms, seaweed, tomatoes, nuts and fermented ingredients can bring depth and fuller mouthfeel to green dishes. (forksoverknives.com)
The Kromans menus put several green techniques into practice. Seaweed pesto and nuts add depth and a savoury edge. Chickpeas, mung beans and potatoes provide substance. Tomatoes, pickled green tomatoes and lemon butter bring acidity and freshness. Cauliflower purée, potato chiffon and ricotta provide softness, while cabbage, flakes, grilled spring onions and fried cauliflower florets give bite and structure.
Texture is what makes the decisive difference. Vegetarian food must not be softness upon softness with a small hope of parsley at the end. It needs crispness, a good sear, acidity, creaminess and something that crunches or pushes back. Otherwise the plate begins to speak far too quietly.
Vegetarian food works particularly well for group cooking at Kromans because there are so many points at which to taste and adjust. Does the tomato need more acidity? Should the cauliflower have more colour? Is the lemon butter too rounded, or exactly where it needs to be to lift the dish? These are the questions you learn from with your hands in the work and the chef close by.
The social setting makes the craft easier to absorb. When people taste together, they also become more curious. And when vegetables receive the treatment they deserve, most people quickly discover that vegetarian food does not need rescuing. It simply needs to be cooked properly.