Nordic food often lets the season lead. The New Nordic Food Manifesto, drawn up in 2004, includes principles of purity, seasonality, ethics, health, sustainability and quality. That does not mean every Nordic dish has to be minimal or solemn. It means the ingredient and the time of year matter.
At Kromans, spring is green and light, with new potatoes, radishes, cress, smoked cheese, herbs and fish. Summer brings dill, roe, berries, salmon, new potatoes and blackcurrants. Autumn deepens with barley, pheasant or wild duck, mushrooms, game and redcurrants. Winter turns to carrots, scallops, Jerusalem artichokes, kale, walnuts, pork cheeks, roots and lingonberries.
Seasonality is not merely a list of produce. It changes the cooking: spring can be lighter and fresher; summer uses herbs, berries and brighter richness; autumn needs more depth, mushrooms and grain; winter calls for baking, braising, cream-cooked greens and warmth.