Mushrooms, cabbage, potatoes and soured cream are easily grouped as ‘earthy ingredients’, but they do not perform the same job. Their strength lies in their differences. Mushrooms bring dark depth and umami, cabbage structure, freshness and bitterness, potatoes calm and satisfaction, while soured cream binds with richness and lifts with acidity.
Mushrooms require heat and attention. Their moisture needs managing if the flavour is to concentrate. Kromans’ Ukrainian menu uses them both as a sauté in varenyky and in mushroom consommé, revealing two sides of the same ingredient: full, fried character and clearer aromatic depth in a liquid.
Cabbage can be more than something boiled until soft. Flame-glazed Savoy cabbage retains structure while gaining sweetness, bitterness and a lightly charred edge. With Chicken Kyiv this matters because the cabbage can stand against butter and breadcrumbs. It should not merely fill a green space on the plate.
Potato works more quietly. As soft mash it provides substance and a calm foundation beneath a stronger central component. Precisely because it is mild and soft, however, it needs seasoning. Otherwise it becomes a neutral interval rather than part of the dish.
Soured cream has a double function. It adds richness as well as fresh acidity. With aubergine caviar on rye-bread croutons, it can counter the aubergine’s soft, lightly smoky character. ‘A little little, a little delicious and a little smoky…’ works only when the smoke also has something acidic and fresh to play against.